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Synthetic vs felt roof underlayment

There are three kinds of roof underlayment: asphalt saturated felt, non-bitumen synthetic, and self-adhered rubberized asphalt (ice and water shield). Felt is cheap and familiar, synthetic is light and tough, and self-adhered goes where leaks are most likely. Here is how to choose.

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Updated October 12, 2026Research based, not hands-on testing

felt: heavier, 3 ft widecap nails hold syntheticwoven polymer sheet
Fig. 1 Felt on the left, synthetic on the right. Synthetic covers more per roll and needs cap fasteners.

Short answer

Choose synthetic when the roof will sit exposed for a while, when wind or foot traffic would tear felt, or when you want lighter rolls that cover more. Choose felt for a small roof that gets covered the same day, or where its vapor permeability matters. Use self-adhered membrane at eaves, valleys and low slopes. Whatever you pick, follow the roofing maker’s list of approved underlayments.

The three types

Roof underlayment types compared

Asphalt feltSyntheticSelf-adhered
Made ofFelt mat saturated with asphaltWoven or spun polymerRubberized asphalt on a film or mat
Roll36 in wide, 72 to 144 ftAbout 4 x 250 ftUsually 36 in wide
ExposureShort: cover it quicklyAbout 4 to 12 monthsPer maker, often limited
FasteningStaples or nails where allowed; cap nails betterCap nails or cap staplesSticks to the deck; seals around nails
VaporPermeable; changes when wetMost under 1 perm (a vapor barrier)Vapor barrier
Cost per sq ftAbout 5¢ for #15About 11 to 15¢Highest

Sources: Fine Homebuilding for sizes, exposure and cost; DECRA for vapor and ventilation. Cost figures are the article’s estimates and change with the market.

wood deckice barrier at eavefelt underlaymentroll roofing
Fig. 2 Underlayment sits between the deck and the roofing, with self-adhered membrane where ice dams or low slopes make leaks likely.

Problems with synthetic underlayment, and the fixes

Problems with felt

What to buy

  1. 01Tough

    Synthetic underlayment

    Best for: exposure, wind, larger roofs over vented attics

    Roll
    about 4 x 250 ft
    Fasten
    cap nails or staples
  2. 02Cheap

    #15 or #30 felt

    Best for: small roofs covered the same day; under roll roofing

    Grades
    Type I / Type II
    Width
    36 in
  3. 03Leak zones

    Self-adhered ice and water membrane

    Best for: eaves, valleys, low slopes, around penetrations

    Type
    rubberized asphalt
    Install
    peel and stick

Questions people ask

What are the main types of roof underlayment?

Asphalt saturated felt (#15 and #30), non-bitumen synthetic (woven or spun polymer sheets), and rubberized asphalt or polymer modified bitumen self-adhered membranes, often called ice and water shield. DECRA describes the same three groups.

What are the problems with synthetic roof underlayment?

The common ones: it costs more than felt; it needs cap nails or cap staples, because plain staples or nails can let water wick in; some products are slippery when wet; and most synthetics are vapor barriers, so DECRA says makers recommend them only over ventilated attics or vented ceilings. Check that the product is approved by your roofing maker.

Is synthetic underlayment better than felt?

It is tougher, lighter per square foot and can stay exposed much longer, from about four to 12 months by Fine Homebuilding’s summary. Felt is cheaper, vapor permeable, and tolerates staples. Better depends on the job.

Can synthetic underlayment go under roll roofing?

Check the roll roofing maker’s instructions. The GAF and TAMKO roll roofing instructions we read name felt or a breather type underlayment. When the wrapper names a type, use it.

See synthetic roof underlayment on Amazon

Sources

  1. Fine Homebuilding, Synthetic roofing underlayments
  2. DECRA, Understanding roof underlayment (maker guide, PDF)

Last reviewed October 12, 2026. Products and listings change; check the data sheet and wrapper before you buy, follow the maker’s instructions, and check your local building code.